London Fashion Week opened on Thursday with an unexpected appearance by King Charles III, only hours after his brother, Prince Andrew, was sensationally arrested, a dramatic development that cast a shadow over an event traditionally devoted to celebrating emerging design talent.
The monarch surprised onlookers when his car pulled up outside a show by British-Nigerian designer Tolu Coker, as headlines were dominated by news of Prince Andrew’s arrest on suspicion of misconduct in public office over his dealings with the late US sex offender Jeffrey Epstein. When asked about Andrew by someone in the crowd, the King appeared not to hear the question.
After greeting designers and industry leaders, Charles took his seat in the front row alongside British Fashion Council chief executive Laura Weir and acclaimed British designer Stella McCartney. The visit formed part of a series of public engagements undertaken by the King on Thursday, projecting a sense of business as usual.
Elegantly dressed in a grey suit with turned-up hems, the monarch toured exhibition stands before presenting McCartney with a scarf in recognition of her contribution to sustainable fashion.
Among the emerging talents set to showcase their work in the coming days is 27-year-old Joshua Ewusie, a British designer of Ghanaian heritage who is staging his second runway show under his label, E.W.Usie. Ewusie has received support from the King’s Foundation, a charity established by Charles, which provided him with studio space shortly after he graduated from Central Saint Martins. One of the foundation’s partners is Chanel.
Royal touch at a talent-driven showcase
London Fashion Week (LFW) is widely regarded as a launchpad for new designers rather than a stage for global luxury giants, and Ewusie exemplifies the platform’s reputation for nurturing rising stars.
“London gives great support for young designers,” Ewusie told AFP ahead of his Sunday presentation. “There are so many opportunities here to help young brands get started.”
Coker, whose show the King attended, founded her label in 2018. Her latest collection featured refined, predominantly unisex designs exploring themes of identity, craftsmanship and sustainability, values highlighted by Fashion Week organisers in an official statement. The King’s attendance, they said, reinforced British fashion’s stature on the global stage.
Elsewhere, at the Waldorf Hotel, the industry paid tribute to Paul Costelloe, a stalwart of London Fashion Week who died in November at the age of 80. The Irish-American designer had been a fixture of the event since its inception in 1984, known for his romantic, tailored collections traditionally shown on opening day.
His son, William Costelloe, now serves as creative director of the brand. Ahead of its Autumn/Winter 2026 show, the label wrote on social media: “A new season. A powerful moment. A legacy moving forward.”
Established names including Harris Reed and Richard Quinn are also returning to the London catwalk, while Burberry is set to close the week on Monday evening in customary fashion.
Several labels favoured by Princess Catherine among them Emilia Wickstead, Edeline Lee and Erdem are also presenting collections, adding further royal resonance to the week.
A fashion incubator under pressure
Notably absent, however, is Northern Irish designer Jonathan Anderson, long considered one of London Fashion Week’s biggest draws. The 41-year-old assumed a new role at Dior last June, leaving limited time to focus on his own brand, JW Anderson, which he founded in 2008.
In recent years, London has struggled to compete with Paris and Milan in terms of commercial dominance. Yet it continues to hold firm as a breeding ground for innovation and young talent.
The British Fashion Council’s NewGen initiative remains central to that mission, providing funding and mentorship to emerging designers, many of whom have used London Fashion Week as a springboard to international recognition.
AFP
